You're going to learn how to repair a cracked masonry foundation wall using two products
designed to work together. The first is the Dricor Pro Concrete Repair Crack Injection
Kit. This is what the box looks like, and this is what's inside. The second product
is the Carbon Fiber Reinforcement Kit. This is what it looks like on the shelf, and this
is what you get inside the box. Using these products is simple, it's easy to learn, and
the results are actually stronger than the surrounding concrete. Step one, injection
port installation and superficial crack sealing. Begin by installing plastic injection ports
all along the crack, about every 18 inches or so. These are anchored with epoxy paste
Put some paste down first, and then nestle the injection port into it. Later on we'll
be taking these ports off, but for now they're really important. Here I am applying the epoxy
paste to a block mock-up, so a simulated crack, and the port just simply goes on there like
that. The epoxy is viscous enough that it will hold the port steady, but if there's
any question that the epoxy might be plugging up the port where it meets the masonry, you'll
want to insert a bamboo skewer in there to keep the hole open while the epoxy cures
The next step involves sealing over the surface of the crack with the same epoxy anchoring
paste you just used. The idea here is to seal the crack superficially. We'll be injecting
expanding foam in the next step, and in order to contain that, we have to have the crack
completely sealed. Back to the concrete block mock-up again, and I'm applying some of the
epoxy anchoring paste to the surface. Remember, just superficially. I don't want to inject
it into the crack in any way. When I have enough on the surface, then I'm tooling that
over to make a smooth and sealed surface. It doesn't really matter what you use. I'm
using a wooden wedge here, but just something that's disposable to smooth and tool that
over and seal the crack. That's what we want to do at this stage before letting everything
cure fully. This takes a minimum of two to three hours, but leave it as long as necessary
to get fully hard. Step two, fill the crack full by injection. Beginning with the lowest port and moving
upwards, inject the polyurethane until you can see it starting to come out the next port
higher. When that happens, cap off the port that you've been injecting in, and then move
the injection gun to the next port higher and repeat the process until you're all the
way at the top of the wall. The Dricor kit you're using here contains expanding polyurethane
foam as the sealing agent, and when that's fully hard, you can knock off the injection
ports and get ready for the next step. Step three, surface grinding. At this stage, this is kind of what your repair area will
look like. The injection ports have been knocked off, but the surface sealing epoxy is still
there, and we need to grind that off so that the wall surface is smooth and bare, and the
only place where you see any kind of filler is the actual crack itself. Here I am using
a diamond wheel in an angle grinder. I'm working on that concrete block mock-up that you saw
before, so if I was actually grinding a wall, that surface would be vertical instead of
horizontal, but the idea is the same. You just want to work back and forth, removing
all the epoxy, getting down to bare masonry to create that flat surface that the epoxy
and the carbon fibre fabric will adhere to very well. Step four, carbon fibre fabric reinforcement. At this stage, it's time for you to use the
second kit that I mentioned at the beginning of the video. It's the carbon fibre reinforcement
kit. All the epoxy sealing layer has been removed, and either side of the crack is scuffed
and cleaned by the action of that cup wheel in the angle grinder. Using the epoxy tube
that came in the carbon fibre kit, squirt some epoxy around the whole area, kind of
in a back and forth way, and then use a small roller to wet the surface and to roll it out
evenly in preparation for applying the carbon fibre fabric that comes next. Push the fabric
into the epoxy on the wall surface, making the length of carbon fibre fabric as long
as possible, while the crack is still no closer than two or three inches from the edge of
that particular piece of fabric. Overlap the pieces as needed when you move from one to
the other until the whole area is covered in the fabric. At this stage, you're almost done. You just need to apply more epoxy to the surface of
the carbon fibre and roll it in. So, you not only have the carbon fibre bonded to the foundation
wall, but it's also encased in epoxy for maximum strength. When everything's fully cured, your
repair will be stronger than the surrounding masonry. Visit www.Flydreamers.com for more