Welcome to our patch and render video. You can see we've got some too early in the render
here. It's hollow, the water's got in, there was no cement in the mix when it was patched
the first time and as you can see it's just de-refined. I'm hacking it off with a claw
hammer here and it's just falling off. Before we're going to start rendering we'll just
temporarily remove the pipework that could be in our way and make the drumming easier
at first. Just cut those off, we can couple them up later on, not a problem. To get the
main bulk of the render off we're going to use a crank chisel in a Hilsa drum and the
crank allows it a lot easier to run along the surface of the wall and take off the outer
render of the image. So you can see it's quite a big area, we've tested it every now and
again beforehand to see that it's hollow and to make absolutely sure that we've taken
it right back to solid render. When we've got the main areas off we run along the edges
with the chisel just to make sure that there's nothing hollow behind it. Cut the edges back
to solid render and then before we put the new render on we mix up some SDR 50-50 with
water, 50% SDR, 50% water. Brush all the dust off with the surface of the wall and around
the edges, make sure there's no loose stuff there and then paint the SDR into all of the
ice cream. Mix up a bit of 50% sharp sand, 50% soft sand at 4 to 1 mix or 4 to 9 until
only deep holes so that we've got a relatively smooth surface to render onto. Mix our render
up, go and see our rendering video to see the mixes to use for this. Two coat render
the first coat is all sharp sand and soft sand mix. Stick the first coat on, press it
hard, get it into the wall, make absolutely sure that you've got a uniform covering. Unlike
skin past through, the thin coat is the first coat. So around 5 to 6mm of render going on
for the first coat, just to cover the surface up and then the rest of the render will go
on in the second coat. About 10mm or so for the second coat. Push it right down into the
edges, make sure you work it well into the brickwork, move along the wall and fill all
of the gaps up. Do the freehand corner as the question is taking your time, putting
the render in a little bit at a time. If you try and put it on too deep it will just fall
off. So a bit at a time, build the corner up, use your browser and I'll show you how
we get it nice and neat later on. This is a polyurethane float, we're going to use that
to rub the first coat in gently and then with some screws put into holes filled in the end
we're going to scratch the surface. So this is called a scratching coat and that gives
the second coat a really good key. So we can unwind the screws to get a smooth polyurethane
float, wind the screws in a little bit to get a nice scratching coat. And there we have
a good key for our second coat. We can see we've replaced the pipe temporarily on the
end of the first day and on the second day we'll come back and we'll mix our render up
Go and have a look again at the rendering video and you'll see the mixes that we used for
And build the render up, a nice strong mix, build the render up to the surface of the
existing wall. Get a piece of timber or a spirit level of straightedge, run it over the existing
it's quite a difficult one this because the surface is tyrolean, the white bits are tyrolean
so they're all lumpy and bumpy. But you can get a really good idea using a straightedge
so that your render is built up to the surface and in this case just a little bit below the
tyrolean surface and I'll show you how we achieve that in a moment. But use your straightedge to
drag the render through so that you're just under the level of the tyrolean. Then we're going to get
our polyurethane float again and rub it right in, rubbing the surface off so that the surface of
our new render is just a little bit below the tyrolean. Then we're going to sponge it over
to make sure that we've absolutely closed the surface and that sponge is really useful for
filling in a few holes and going over the edges of the new patch of render where it needs to be
existing to get it looking smooth and just under the surface. We're using the sponge as well to
freeform that corner, that was a radius corner there and that gives us a really lovely finish
and closes the surface up, stopping the water penetration and making sure we've got a nice
closed surface. And there we have our patch of render complete
Both sides as you can see that's nice and smooth and it's just underneath the surface
ready for tyrolean which comes in another video on how to get a tyrolean finish
And there's the finished job. Two or three days later when we applied the tyrolean
two coats of that and away we go with a job that's gone right back to the existing