WEBVTT

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Welcome to our patch and render video. You
can see we've got some too early in the render

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here. It's hollow, the water's got in, there
was no cement in the mix when it was patched

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the first time and as you can see it's just
de-refined. I'm hacking it off with a claw

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hammer here and it's just falling off. Before
we're going to start rendering we'll just

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temporarily remove the pipework that could
be in our way and make the drumming easier

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at first. Just cut those off, we can couple
them up later on, not a problem. To get the

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main bulk of the render off we're going to
use a crank chisel in a Hilsa drum and the

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crank allows it a lot easier to run along the
surface of the wall and take off the outer

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render of the image. So you can see it's quite
a big area, we've tested it every now and

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again beforehand to see that it's hollow
and to make absolutely sure that we've taken

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it right back to solid render. When we've
got the main areas off we run along the edges

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with the chisel just to make sure that there's
nothing hollow behind it. Cut the edges back

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to solid render and then before we put the
new render on we mix up some SDR 50-50 with

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water, 50% SDR, 50% water. Brush all the dust
off with the surface of the wall and around

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the edges, make sure there's no loose stuff
there and then paint the SDR into all of the

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ice cream. Mix up a bit of 50% sharp sand,
50% soft sand at 4 to 1 mix or 4 to 9 until

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only deep holes so that we've got a relatively
smooth surface to render onto. Mix our render

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up, go and see our rendering video to see
the mixes to use for this. Two coat render

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the first coat is all sharp sand and soft
sand mix. Stick the first coat on, press it

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hard, get it into the wall, make absolutely
sure that you've got a uniform covering. Unlike

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skin past through, the thin coat is the first
coat. So around 5 to 6mm of render going on

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for the first coat, just to cover the surface
up and then the rest of the render will go

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on in the second coat. About 10mm or so for
the second coat. Push it right down into the

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edges, make sure you work it well into the
brickwork, move along the wall and fill all

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of the gaps up. Do the freehand corner as
the question is taking your time, putting

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the render in a little bit at a time. If you
try and put it on too deep it will just fall

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off. So a bit at a time, build the corner
up, use your browser and I'll show you how

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we get it nice and neat later on. This is a
polyurethane float, we're going to use that

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to rub the first coat in gently and then with
some screws put into holes filled in the end

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we're going to scratch the surface. So this
is called a scratching coat and that gives

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the second coat a really good key. So we can
unwind the screws to get a smooth polyurethane

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float, wind the screws in a little bit to
get a nice scratching coat. And there we have

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a good key for our second coat. We can see
we've replaced the pipe temporarily on the

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end of the first day and on the second day
we'll come back and we'll mix our render up

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Go and have a look again at the rendering
video and you'll see the mixes that we used for

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And build the render up, a nice strong mix,
build the render up to the surface of the

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existing wall. Get a piece of timber or a spirit
level of straightedge, run it over the existing

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it's quite a difficult one this because the
surface is tyrolean, the white bits are tyrolean

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so they're all lumpy and bumpy. But you can
get a really good idea using a straightedge

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so that your render is built up to the surface
and in this case just a little bit below the

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tyrolean surface and I'll show you how we achieve
that in a moment. But use your straightedge to

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drag the render through so that you're just under
the level of the tyrolean. Then we're going to get

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our polyurethane float again and rub it right in,
rubbing the surface off so that the surface of

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our new render is just a little bit below the
tyrolean. Then we're going to sponge it over

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to make sure that we've absolutely closed the
surface and that sponge is really useful for

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filling in a few holes and going over the edges
of the new patch of render where it needs to be

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existing to get it looking smooth and just under
the surface. We're using the sponge as well to

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freeform that corner, that was a radius corner
there and that gives us a really lovely finish

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and closes the surface up, stopping the water
penetration and making sure we've got a nice

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closed surface. And there we have
our patch of render complete

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Both sides as you can see that's nice and
smooth and it's just underneath the surface

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ready for tyrolean which comes in another
video on how to get a tyrolean finish

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And there's the finished job. Two or three
days later when we applied the tyrolean

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two coats of that and away we go with a
job that's gone right back to the existing