Hi, it's Ray Shaline from Pro Shaper Workshop in Charlton, Massachusetts
Welcome back. We're back on this 33 Ford Fender. And if you've watched episode number one, we found out that this is a big problem
And tonight we're going to cut it open. It'll be like revealing the mystery
of what happened there. But before we do that, let's check this out
What you're looking at here is the GoCod Volkswagen aluminum body made by Jason from Marlborough
And he won a contest, and it was for 10 days, but he's been so good at it and dedicated
and he's actually going to do the whole project. The only thing I'm really disturbed about is he hasn't done this running board yet
I've been saying, Jason, we've got to get this running board. He's been dittling around with these panels here
He's got these almost finishing. Then, hopefully, the running board. But I just want to ask you, Jason, how much shaping did you do before you came here and learned
So no shaping, no shaping experience before I came here. No shaping experience at all
You never used an English wheel. No, no, no. I started in February
February, yeah. It's progress since February. Yeah, he comes in a couple times a week
can't. No, it's just, it's, you know, when I started, it seemed like it would take forever to get it done
But it's amazing. We only have the running board and then this, I'm finishing up this panel here, so we're getting very close
So it's amazing how fast I've, how quick I've learned. And I think it's due to raise patience and his ability to explain things, I think, in a simple way
It's exciting to be so close to the finish line. Yeah. And he signed on actually for
the whole deal he's going to help make a new chassis for it and make it running and everything
This is going to be for my grandson. And it was another group of guys at another class
It was like five guys that did this wire for him. It's a custom one-off VW
And hopefully my grandson is going to fit in there. Let's get back to that 33 Ford Fender
So here's the other fender. This is the left side fender. And both of them are pretty choppy
a lot of little dense micro dense and good size little dense and I've focused on
this part here I've thrown everything at it I've got the mon there and
also magic marker and now this is black lacquer and I've smoothed this all
out I've used the shrinking disk my slapper and we'll cover this in another
video maybe part three showing how to get these nice super smooth surface
I've got this pot pretty much done. There might be a few little micro spots. I've got to fix
Over here still needs attention. There's still a little bit of chatter over in here that needs to be fixed
And I found this little spot to be really tricky to do. Right in here is a real bugger
It's hard to get your slapper in there. It's hard to get a hammer in there. But from here over is not that bad
But the whole fender, it has been sandblasted. It wasn't warped. And they put the
a gray epoxy primer on it and basically I have to sand off the epoxy primer. I use that little
Habifrate sander. I don't have it right here right now. Oh here it is right here. This little
two inch harbifrate sander with 80 paper will sand that primer off really, really nicely
So the rest of the fender is going to have to be addressed. This is probably beat up a little
bit along the edge here and then there's some in the back I got to do. So this fender is actually a
pretty pristine fender for a typical Ford Fender. Its partner, the right side is we've got that bad damage spot that we're going to cut out right now
All right, the objective here is we want to find out what's happened to this wire that's in here
So we don't want to cut right through here. We're going to have to peel this away
And we'll make rounded corners. The rounded corners on these patches are a little better to weld in
rather than a square. It's not that big a deal, but that's what we're going to do on this one
We're going to use these little Dremel cutoff wheels. They have this really little cool
quick change capability. Now that's the actual size of the cutoff wheel. They're 1.30 second inch
thick, and we're going to use those. We'll sneak up on it here. We've got to cut these
corners. We'll sand those corners in after. Alright, now we're gonna need a new wheel. That wheel was worn down quite a bit already
You pull this little lock down, pop it in, turn it, and then it locks like that
There's the patch
They've welded a piece right on top, on the inside. And now we've got to investigate exactly what's happening in here
It's getting a little hot. And we don't want to break or nick that wire
We're going to try to, if we have to, hopefully the wire is still good to about here
and then we can put a new piece of wire in. This is going to have to be lengthened out a little bit
So it'll be a little bit longer. Let me get a pair of pliers
Alright, we cut the little piece out. I took the pliers and broke it loose here
We're going to slowly whittle away at this
That doesn't look good. Let me get a light
I'm going to use these little nippers. Then we can peel that out of there, let's see
There we go. There's the wire, look at that. There's, uh, let's say like 80 years of rust or something
So far it looks like the wire is intact and I didn't nick it here at all, so that's all good
They might have welded to it though, I'm not sure. I've got to cut some more right in here
Let's open in a tin can here. Now that should come right loose, but apparently, okay, it looks like that is a
brake right there yeah they might have put a piece in there or something there's
something odd right there we're gonna get this unattached it might be welded
I have to grind it all the way so let's continue with this little one the wheels
wear out pretty fast but they allow you to do this little precise work without wrecking anything
I gotta put another wheel up. That look definitely looks broken right there
I think they used a hardening rod or something
That's pretty hard
Let's see if we can break that loose. You can see where the wire is broken right there
That will explain why this thing is crunched in here. It's bent in
I'm pretty sure. Got to cut the backside of that. There we go
There we go All right so our wire is intact
It's there, but it was broken. All right, look at that. There's our 5 eighths of an inch right there
We're moving this 5.8s over here. This fender was crunched in 5 eighths of an inch
Now let's put this gauge on here. We'll put that on
Right to here. Now I'll bring this out. Look at that. It's perfect
So when they repaired it, look at that. That's how minute that damages
It looks like the wire broke, but it pulled it in when they put the
the patch in there, it shrunk it and caused all that pain and suffering
We're going to make sure this measurement is correct and we'll hold it while we're doing the weld
First we've got to clean this wire up and probably cut it with a scarf joint and put a new
piece in here and we'll have to wire brush it to get all the rust off of it
So we'll be back after we get that done. Alright, so we're going to clean this rust up a little bit
It looks like it did a good job
Now the issue here is we've got to spread a good job
this fender to get that correct measurement. So we'll have to clamp on a bracket and that will
tell us exactly where this has got to be. It's only a little bit that is open here, but if
we weld that together right there, let's see. Yeah, we can probably do that. We can fill that
in. We might do that. We're going to, if we put a piece in then we have two joints to do
This one's going to have a big void in it, but I think we can fill that up
All right, so I'm going to straighten this out a little bit with a hammer and dolly
All right, we stretch that fender out, and we've got to get a fender out, and we've got to get a
gap of about an eighth of an inch that's got to be made up right there. Now I could
scarf joint that in. A scarf joint is two acute angles coming together and welding it
and you get more surface area. But this is going to have a piece right in the middle and I'm
going to be able to cold forge it or hot forged it after and it'll probably expand it a
little bit. So I'm using a 3.30 second rod. I only got 40 amps. We'll see what happens
here. I'm going to try to blob it in and we'll forge it
and grind it after. All right, that came out pretty good
I had to copper behind there holding everything in alignment and it also put a floor on it
We're best to tip it over and then try to get the backside as well, so we'll do that next
All right, we're going to weld the back of that wire now. You can clearly see it
We've got the little Hobra Freight LED light here. Lights it up nice
But before we do that, I just want to remember to say that everybody, please tell all you
friends let's get some more subscriptions let's get the comments coming and the the
the likes and also ring that little notification bell every time there's a new video you'll be
able to see it we're trying to build this channel uh we did the russ video we got crazy views on the
russ video we do a beautiful video like this it shows you some really good stuff and it just
doesn't do much so you got to spread it out on social media a little bit help us build the
channel thank you A lot of extra material on, we'll have to grind it, and we're going to cold forge that now
And that will actually spread it out a little bit more, which is what we might need to happen anyways
So let's stand the fender up again and we'll take another look at it. All right, so we got that welded up, and I was going to hit it with a hammer, just a coal for
together a little bit here put the dolly underneath here and we going to grind that excess off And this wire we spread it out so we get the correct length on the fender
But that's not the only thing holding this fender from collapsing. As we can see now, we got the wire welded and we can still flex that fender out
And what we're going to have to do is we'll take. can make a bracket and we'll make the bracket probably on the other fender that will bolt into
one of these holes here and it'll probably use a piece of angle eye and it's got some good strength
and we'll bring it over here and have a flange here that we can put a nice vice grip clamp on there
and that'll hold its spread when we create this new patch with the bead which has to match all up and
everything and that that will eventually get rolled over here around the wired edge so
it'll look exactly like factory when we're all done and the welds will disappear
totally would be using the tig welder you can see how nice that tig weld that worked on
welding that up if you did gas I'm sure you could do it with gas and you can probably
do it with mig but the tig generally is a pretty malleable weld and that should work fine
I'm going to grind that up a little bit first on the back side, then the front side
and we'll go from there. That's that
Now we'll tip it over and grind the front side. That feels pretty good
And now we'll clean this opening up a little bit. We've got a little drum stand there
We'll sand out those edges and corners there. It is all cleaned up
Now let's take some of this epoxy off
Does that little half-a-frey 2-inch details seem. detail sand if you haven't bought one of these buy a couple of them they're really good
I've bought four or five of them haven't worn one out yet we'll have to sand on the
inside too because that epoxy primer really screws up the welding process with fumes
All right, now let's check out how that flexible shape had
It wouldn't work for beans before. So we're going to locate it on there
Bring it around here. And now you can see it's right where it wants to be on the bead there
So we're going to get some magnets, hold it on, and then what I'm going to do is trace it
on the inside here. So I'll be able to figure out exactly the size of the patch panel that we need
All right, I put the Flexible Shaped pattern, of course it's inside out, registered on that mounting
hole, and this is all registered right where the bead valley is, and it's all sitting really nice
that it held on with the magnets. when we put that on there, when that piece was welded in there, these didn't register at all where the bead was
But I'm afraid that what I was going to do is take and just ink it in here with a pen
and that would give me the exact size of the patch that I'm going to have to make
But I think it would be a better idea to make that special bracket, the spreader bracket
We're going to make the spreader bracket off of the other fender, and then we'll put it in the exact same location on here
before we ink this to make sure our patch panel is correct size
because we don't want this pulling in again. So I think that's going to be it for tonight
It's about 10.30 already, and we've got to hit going home. So thanks for watching
It's Ray from Pro Shaper. Stay tuned for Part 3. We'll weld this in, make the patch welded in
and we'll probably do some dent repair as well with the shrinking desk, torch, all the little implements and tricks we use
with taking dents out. So stay tuned. Metal is clay. It's Ray Shaline